About the Icknield Way Path
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The Icknield Way Path traces a prehistoric pathway across 105 miles of eastern and southern England, from Knettishall Heath in Norfolk to Ivinghoe Beacon in the Chilterns, roughly following a low chalk ridge. Essentially, it's two paths in one, as alternative routes for walkers and horse riders give a choice on the ground; we mostly followed the former, but not slavishly so.
Dave Travers and I started walking the path in 2005 and finished at Ivinghoe Beacon in 2007. We walked east to west, which is not the usual direction, we understand. We crossed dry Breckland - the driest place in England, and one of the driest in northern Europe - the Lark valley, the edge of Newmarket heath, and the stud farm country to its south, cut by the embankment of Devil's Ditch. South of Brinkley, agriculture predominates to the half-way point of Great Chesterford, on the River Cam, and beyond to Royston.
After another rural stage taking in Therfield Heath to Baldock, the original Icknield Way plunges straight through Letchworth, Luton and Dunstable; we took the quieter northern alternative. Here you take in some attractive corners of the Chilterns, such as the Pegsdon Hills and Sharpenhoe Clappers, and indeed from time to time the path coincides with the Chiltern Way. There is a short diversion to the greensand ridge at Toddington too. The edge of Dunstable is no beauty, but this prosaic town has the saving grace of its own downland, before passing through the tourist village of Whipsnade en route to the hillfort finish of Ivinghoe Beacon.
One says finish, and it's generally regarded as such, but there is now a two-day extension to Bledlow which I will come back and solo after I finish the Surrey/Kent version of the Greensand Way.
The website of the Icknield Way Association has a variety of photographs of the route.
Towns and villages
There are no towns on the eastern
section, though the western half cuts through some very built up
areas, with alternatives to avoid the worst of the sprawl. Thetford,
birthplace of the great revolutionary Thomas Paine, is close to
Knettishall Heath, but there is no significant settlement other than tiny
Euston as you cross Breckland until Icklingham. From Herringswell onwards
(see sign pictured right) you cross horse-breeding territory south of
Newmarket, with several pleasant villages, such as Gazeley and Cheveley; further on, Balsham, Linton
and Great Chesterford are small towns these days, rather than
large villages, but there is less of the dormitory about Chrishall and Elmdon. The town
of Royston has been significant for centuries as the intersection
of the Icknield Way and Watling Street, and one presumes that
Therfield Heath once ran all the way the Therfield village. Baldock was once a coaching stop on the Great North
Road, and the new town of Letchworth was planned as a 'garden city'; Houghton Regis and Dunstable have good history
too, but alas little character left. Whipsnade is famous for its zoo. The final village of the path, Dagnall,
is in contrast a working village.
Transport and accommodation
The first part of the walk has little transport, other than that provided by the A14 and Ipswich - Bury - Cambridge rail line. Knettishall Heath is around four miles from Thetford rail station, and Kennet and Newmarket stations are close to the route. There are various bus services radiating south from Newmarket, and the reasonable Cambridge - Haverhill bus service passes through Linton. Great Chesterford has a rail station too; and beyond the Cam, Royston and Baldock are both on the Cambridge - London King's Cross main rail line. After that, it's buses only, fairly decent services including the Ivinghoe Rambler which helpfully stops right below the Beacon on Sundays in season. Dunstable is the largest town in England without a rail service, by the way.
To check bus services I use carlberry.co.uk and for rail the National Rail site.
There is practically no accomodation in the Breckland part of the walk. The area to the south of Newmarket has plenty as a result of the need to cater for racegoers (obvious warning - avoid Newmarket on race days). Linton and Great Chesterford have good pubs with rooms. There will be B&Bs and hotels in Royston, Baldock and Dunstable but not all of guaranteed quality. Dave and Rachel stayed overnight between our two final days, but found B&Bs hard to come by in the area, settling on the Chequers in Streatley, right on the path in a nice setting next to the church; they are happy to recommend it.
Find out about walking the path