Walking the Harcamlow Way
In the 1970s and 1980s, Fred Matthews and Harry Bitten, two stalwart members of the west Essex Ramblers' Association,
put down several long-distance paths in and around Essex that will be a lasting memorial to them.
The longest at 140 miles, the Harcamlow Way runs in a figure of eight from Harlow to Cambridge and back.
It takes in much unspoilt countryside and many pleasant villages, such as Manuden (right),
and is here described in my walk with Dave Travers spread out between 1995 and 1998.
The Cambridge Eight
Perhaps the least attractive feature of the walk is its awkward portmanteau name. It conveys the route but without charm.
What about an unofficial renaming as the Cambridge Eight - a sporting allusion, the one city on the route,
and a plan of the route all in one. Indeed, it would be quite practical to walk the whole route in eight days
while staying in Cambridge, so good are the transport links from the city to key points throughout.
See the bottom of the page for a guide on how to do it.
Unlike Matthews and Bitten (and Travers and Aylmer's own walk), the walk in these pages is described as starting from Cambridge.
Matthews and Bitten self-published route guides to all their paths.
The style however is over-precise, with detailed directions of the
'turn left through two wicket gates close together ignoring gate on right' style.
OS Landranger and Pathfinder maps show the route, and I would choose to work directly from the Pathfinders.
For the Matthews and Bitten guide, tourist information centres in the area may have them,
or try the Epping Forest information centre, which is run by the City of London.
You will need the OS maps anyway in the Stansted area owing to recent significant diversions.
Which brings one to the point that the proposed (2008)
expansion of Stansted airport
will do dreadful things to large tracts of pleasant countryside, quite apart from the environmental damage caused by the extra flights.
Support the campaign to stop the expansion - fat chance though while we have blinkered leaders.
Harlow
Harlow is a new town in Essex. That damns it already to many.
It certainly has its share of ribbon development, 60s estates and shopping malls,
but do not ever forget that to a generation of east and north Londoners the chance to move out
of desperately cramped bomb-hit accommodation to the green countryside of Essex was heaven indeed.
The Harcamlow Way passes through the town on the Stort River towpath;
another path, the Forest Way, goes through its southern fringes, and both show attractive touches.
Saffron Walden, Newport and Thaxted
Saffron Walden and Thaxted are both prosperous and very pretty Essex market towns,
although Saffron Walden in particular
is perhaps a little too touristy these days. The path also goes past Audley End nearby,
a major country house with open-air concerts in the summer.
Thaxted is much smaller than Saffron Walden, barely more than a village,
but it has a fine church and Guidhall. Newport is at the centre of the figure-of-eight; formerly a coaching stop on the Cambridge road,
it is much quieter now the M11 forms a bypass, but with the railway it is well placed for Cambridge and London commuters.
Cambridge
World-famous, of course, with its University one of the great and historic seats of learning.
The River Cam helps lend the city its character, and walking along this path into the city beside the river
you will almost certainly see college crews practising.
Undoubtedly a major tourist centre,
it's a working town too (though not as industrial as its partner Oxford), and there is a thriving open air market in the centre.
Other highlights
The valleys of the little Rivers Ash and Rib, the latter especially, are splendid.
Villages worth stopping in include Manuden, Coton, Arkesden and Debden (not the one on the Central Line).
The path spends four miles on top of the ancient Fleam Dyke, and reaches the edge of fen country around Lode.
Wimpole Hall is one of the most interesting National Trust properties
in eastern England.
Hatfield Forest is,
like Epping Forest, a relic of the natural forests of England. Around here you cannot avoid the influence of Stansted Airport;
the new A120 has caused a path diversion, but if the threatened second runway ever arrives there will be changes beyond recognition.
Transport and accommodation
Cambridge has two rail lines to London, and this walk can use both. On the Liverpool Street line,
the walk passes Harlow Town (the official start of the walk), Roydon, and Newport, and Harlow Mill and Sawbridgeworth are close by;
Stanstead Airport station is less than a mile off route; Meldreth on the King's Cross line is close by too.
Places like Standon, Saffron Walden, Bartlow, Fulbourn, Thaxted and Takeley have good bus services, but they may need some research.
By road, the M11 runs close to the Liverpool Street line.
There are plenty of places to stay in Cambridge (all budgets) and Saffron Walden (pricey).
Harlow has its share too but often functional and business-oriented. The influence of Stansted Airport is not always bad,
for it has increased the supply of accommodation in the south of the walk - B&Bs as well as impersonal hotels.
Some of the local pubs have rooms.
This is how it could be done. No slacking now!
day |
finish |
miles |
return to Cambridge |
1 |
Melbourn |
23 |
bus 23 to Cambridge hourly |
2 |
Newport |
14 |
train to Cambridge hourly |
3 |
Stansted Airport |
17 |
train to Cambridge hourly |
4 |
Harlow Town |
14 |
train to Cambridge half-hourly |
5 |
Standon |
16 |
|
6 |
Newport |
17 |
train to Cambridge hourly |
7 |
Balsham |
20 |
|
8 |
Cambridge |
20 |
n/a |
Mileages around Stansted may now vary slightly owing to the new A120.
All places are directly on the route, other than Stansted Airport - access this from the road just
before Takeley church, at 559220, just under one mile (included in the distances shown).
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